The logic is to start at the farthest wheel from the fluid reservoir and work toward the nearest wheel. I SET THE PARKING BRAKE AND USE WHEEL CHOCKS ! I raised the rear from the differential housing so I could work both rear's w/ one lift. And SET THE PARKING BRAKE AND USE WHEEL CHOCKS ! If you use the EMERGENCY trunk jack to lift the wheels, please have a jack-stand in place to prevent unfortunate consequences. You could do this w/ just the trunk jack, but I must warn you that I consider it unnecessarily DANGEROUS to do so. (I have two floor jacks though it's not necessary. 2-ton floor jack w/ second chock, heavy floor jack and nitrile gloves, (on towel) small vice-grip pliers, handle w/ 11mm socket, yellow funnel w/ sleeve, my "MacGyvered" brake bleeding apparatus, baster syringe, torque wrench w/ 17mm socket, wheel bolt wrench, 7mm combination spanner (wrench), and 1 L can of Ate blue brake fluid (enough for both 7's). Here's how I did it:Īssemble tools and supplies - Clockwise from the wheel chock at 10 o'clock, alum. Īuthor: WTH (moderator) : member since December, 2003 : 4262 postsīMW recommends brake fluid be changed every 24 months. Of course replacing the rotor will fix it too, but if the rotor thickness has a lot of life left in it, then removing the excess pad material off the rotor will save the need to replace the rotors.Subject: Brake Fluid Change - What I did - Step by step. Scuffing the rotor surface or resurfacing it corrected the judder. This is usually caused by a high speed emergency stop on the highway where the pad a rotor get really hot, then pad deposits excess material onto the rotor in one spot while stopped. What I did find was a deposit of brake pad material on one spot on the rotor that causes the pad to grab on each rotation making it appear as it could be a warped rotor. I've tested many rotors that people thought were warped due to judder and none of tm were warped. I'm not saying it's not possible, or that yours weren't warped, I've just never seen it on an OEM rotor. On my previous 335 I replaced the front brakes not because the pads were gone but the rotors were warped. If that's not your wheelhouse you might want to take a little control over what they do and what parts they use.įirst thing to consider is the rotors, you don't need to replace them with every pad replacement especially if there is no brake judder (warped rotors) or the pads are gone and the rotors are scored. Bottom line you can do everything there sans the brake fluid for between $300 and $400 if you don't mind getting dirty and have some basic mechanical skills, brakes aren't that hard. The rotors were drilled and slotted and they worked as well or better than the stock ones. I did some research and ended up buying Powerstop rotors and pads which came in a kit for just over $200 and included the sensor. First thing to consider is the rotors, you don't need to replace them with every pad replacement especially if there is no brake judder (warped rotors) or the pads are gone and the rotors are scored. The labor on the brake job doesn't seem too out of line and if the parts are BMW OEM the parts probably aren't out of line. Cabin filters are a little more involved but the hardest part is getting under the glove box if your a big guy.īrake fluid service I have issue with, it's a hydraulic closed system, it shouldn't need to be changed as often as BMW recommends, but I'm no expert there. Parts there seem reasonable but $45 is stupid, air filter will take you 5 minutes and a child could do it. Just updated my post with a pic of the work up he gave me I wouldn't spend 900 for that "break" job. Btw there is only one sensor for the rear brakes. Any feedback appreciated! I'll try and update this post with a picture of the work up if needed!įor just rear brake pads/sensors/fluid seems overpriced. This very well could be a decent price or I could be getting ripped off, just curious what you guys think. They quoted me with the rear break pads being replaced, the sensors for the break pads, break fluid change, and all of the labor (there might be another one or two things on the work up, but I'll add them if I find anything of significance) at just over $900. I currently have just shy of 60k miles on my vehicle, and I go in for oil changes around 7500 miles or so. Today nothing was out of the ordinary, but they did give me a potential work up of what my next visit would look like, as they stated my break pads on the rear were down to 5 mm. So I had my oil changed today on my '16 X3 at a local indie BMW shop, they've been very trustworthy so far.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |